The Rainbow Valley - Atacama desert, Chile

We travelled with a guide to the Rainbow valley an hour and a half from San Pedro - this is a spectacular valley with multi-coloured layers of rock and sand. The different colours are formed by a variety of minerals and oxidized elements in the rock layers. Ons het saam met n gids na die Reenboog vallei gery - daar is verskillende kleure in die rotse en sand hier, veroorsaak deur n wye reeks minerale en oksidasie prosesse in die klip en sand.    

Tatio Warm water geyers - Atacama desert

Ons het vroeg vertrek van San Pedro en met n bussie gery na die warm water geysers in die berge. Die warm water en stoom kom van die hitte diep onder die grond. Dit is baie mooi vroeg in die oggend a groot wolke stoom afgeblaas word and water borrel soos dit kook - hier moet jy maar versigtig loop anders beland jy in die kook pot!! Ons het ook in warm water bron gaan swem en die vroee oggend warm bad baie geniet. We made an early morning departure from San Pedro and travelled to the high altitude geyers to take photos of the steam and bubbling hot water cauldrons. The heat originates from volcanic activity deep under the earth's surface and the water comes boiling and bubbling to the surface. We also travelled to nearby warm water spring and relaxed in the soothing hot bath temperature water. The grass surrounding the water water spring was covered in ice as the night time temperatures here fall to minus 10 degrees centigrade.    

Die Atacama Woestyn - Chile

Ons het in San Pedro, Chile aangekom - dit is die dorp wat grens aan die beroemde Atacama woestyn en is ook naby aan die Andes berg reeks. Daar is baie aktiewe vulkane in hierdie gebied en die Atacama sout vlakte is een van die grootste in die wereld. Dit is baie hoog hier en ons voel baie kort asem as ons begin stap. Die woestyn is baie droog maar jy kan ook sneeu op die berge sien - die berge wat die woestyn omring is 4000 - 6000 meter hoog (dit is dubbel so hoog as die hoogte piek in die Drakensberg reeks). Etosha pan in Namibia is ook een van die grootste sout vlaktes in die wereld.

We arrive at the high altitude town of San Pedro in Chile - this town lies at the edge of the Atacama desert and is the springboard for trips into the desert and surrounding mountains.          

The Midnight Express - South American Airport style

We overslept in Mendoza and missed our bus to Santiago, capital of Chile - decided to catch a taxi to the airport and fly instead so packed in a mad rush and arrived late for our flight. Went through the security screen where they X-rayed our hand luggage and the security officer says in broken English "You have knife in bag!" Who me?? No ways!!! Somehow my Norwegian hunting knife with a 5 inch blade managed to land up in my camera bag - this is serious stuff. Had visions of being held in a South American cell for interrogation / questioning and being cavity searched by big policemen with fingers like bananas! Fortunately they are fairly laid back in Argentina and after profuse apologies I even managed to keep the knife and check it in with the main luggage - Whew! What a close shave!!!
Ons het per ongeluk laat geslaap en ons bus na Santiago, Chile nie gehaal nie. Baie vinning gepak en besluit om te vlieg maar het ook laat by die Mendoza lughawe aangekom en soos n warrelwind deur die doeane en security gegaan - het dit nie besef nie maar per ongeluk n groot jag mes in my hand baggasie ingepak!! Was bekommerd dat ek tyd in n Suid Amerikaanse tronk gaan spandeer maar na baie praat en jammer se het hulle ons toestemming gegee om die mes te hou en saam met die groot baggasie in te weeg. Whew! Dit was naby!!! 

San Rafael – the lazy bike town

This town is 230 km’s south of Mendoza – the majority of people ride bicycles here and it is great to see everyone on their mountain bikes and racing bikes cruising around town. We pass through San Rafael and drive to Valle Grande on the Atuel River. It is a mini San Rafael Grand Canyon with many small cabanas on the banks of the river and white water rafting / abseiling / horse riding centres.

Ons ry Suid na San Rafael, n baie rustige dorp met groot bome en waar die meeste van die mense fiets ry. Dit is wonderlik om almal op hulle fietse te sien, lyk baie gesond. Net buite San Rafael is die Valle Grande valley wat soos n mini Grand Canyon lyk. Die Atuel rivier loop in die canyon af en daar is baie White Water Rafting / berg klim maatskappye wat op die rivier.      

Porterillos - The Andes Mountain Range

Porterillos

This is a small village on Route 7 from Mendoza to the Chilean border and Santiago. Route 7 also goes past Aconcagua – the largest peak outside of the Himalaya range and just under 7000 meters in height (this is more than DOUBLE the height of the top of the Drakensberg range in South Africa!) We stayed in a little Cabana in the Porterillo area and managed to get our first flat tire of the journey. From there we travelled South along the Andes range and enjoyed some stunning high plateau country side with groups of grazing cattle / horses and snow capped peaks in the background. Porterillos is n klein dorpie op Route 7 tussen Mendoza en die Chile grens. Hierdie roete gaan ook naby Aconcagua – die grootste piek buite die Himalayas reeks (net onder 7000m hoog). Hierdie piek is meer as dubbel die hoogte van die hoogste berg in Darkensberge!!! Na een aand in n klein cabana naby Porterillos het ons Suid gery langs die Andes berg reeks. Ons het deur a pragtige plateau gebied gery met groepies beeste / perde wat wei en sneeu bedekte pieke in die agtergrond.         

Mendoza – Wine Capital of Argentina

This is a trendy town just to the East of the Andes mountain range and renowned as the Wine Capital of Argentina. We stayed in a backpackers hostel and got time to see the town and enjoy some Argentinian beef and red wine. We decided to hire a car and travel towards the Andes mountains and see some of the winelands and scenic areas. Our hiking boots were also a bit worse for wear so we both had a street vendor polish them up a bit!  

Hierdie groot dorp is die wyn hoofstad van Argentinia – dit is net Oos van die Andes berg reeks. Ons het twee aande in n backpackers hostel gebly en die groot voordeel hiervan is dat jy kans kry om met baie ander mense te praat en uit te vind waar die lekker plekke is. Ons het ook in die dorp uitgeeet en die Argentinia beesvleis en rooi wyn baie geniet. Ons het besluit om n kar te huur en bietjie van die omgewing te sien.

The Big Road Trip (Andesmar Bus Company)

We decided to travel from Bariloche to Mendoza by bus so that we would see some of the country side (and it was cheaper!) The bus trip took 16 hours but the big tour buses are really comfy and you get Semi Cama seats that are like travelling business class on a 747. We got lots of time to read and play Angry Birds on the I-pad. Ons het besluit om met die bus van Bariloche na Mendoza toe te ry. Dit was n 16 ure bus trippie maar ons het darem iets van die land gesien en dit was ook goedkoper as om te vlieg. Die busse is baie gemaklik en jy kry n Semi-Cama sitplek wat soos besigheids klas op n vliegtuig is. Ons het baie tyd gehad vir lees en Angry Birds speel op die I-pad ; ).  

Die Boere van Patagonia

Ons Suid Afrikaners het ook n interessante geskiedenis hier in Patagonia! In 1902 (net na die einde van die Boere Oorlog) het n klein groep Afrikaner “Bittereinders”  op die Ooskus van Patagonia (Comodoro) aangekom. Hulle was die Boere wat nie bereid was om onder n Britse regering in Suid Afrika aan te bly nie. Hulle het in moelilikke omstandighede plase in Patagonia gestig en van die oorspronlikke 300 families is daar nou omtrent 4000 afstammelinge in hierdie distrik. Baie van hulle praat nog Afrikaans by die huis en natuurlik ook Spaans. Hulle is bekend vir die hoe gehalte van hulle wol skape (Australiaanse Merino’s) en baie goeie boerderye.

The South Africans also have a fascinating history in Patagonia – soon after the end of the Anglo Boer war (1902) a small group of Afrikaner Boer settlers travelled by ship from Cape Town to the town of Comodoro on the East coast of Patagonia. This group of Boers were called the “Bittereinders” or “Bitter enders” – people who refused to live under British rule in South Africa and were determined to make a new life for themsleves. There are currently approximately 4000 descendants of the original 300 families that relocated to Patagonia and many of them still speak Afrikaans at home and fluent Spanish. They have a reputation for having good farms and breeding excellent quality Australian Merino sheep.     

Trevelin – A Welsh jewel in the Patagonian crown

There is a fascinating story about a group of Welsh settlers that left Britain in the late 19^th century and settled in the small town of Trevelin - the Welsh word means “Mill town”. I presume they left to escape the tentacles of the British Empire and maintain their language and culture. Welsh is a Celtic language. Many of the inhabitants of this small town still speak Welsh and are now fluent in Spanish as well, some of the more affluent people went back to Britain for their schooling and speak English in addition to the Welsh / Spanish. We drove around this beautiful little town and had a traditional Welsh tea with scones and tarts. Out of approximately 150,000 people living in the province of Chubut (the province where the Welsh areas of Patagonia are located) there are approximately 20,000 of whom are descendants of the Welsh. Many of them speak Welsh naturally, and many more are able to speak Welsh to differing levels. The latter are people and children who either have received some amount of Welsh at home, or have learned Welsh as a second language in the classroom. Approximately 600-700 children and people of all ages are learning Welsh as a second language annually.
It looks like rural Argentina is a place where anyone with money and/or skills can settle and make a good life relatively undisturbed by the authorities. This is probably the reason why many Nazi’s also fled to South America and settled here after the Second World war to escape persecution in Europe. Daar is n wonderlikke dorpie (Suid van Esquel) met die naam van Trevelin “Waar die koring gemaal is” waar die meeste mense van Walliese oorsprong is. Hulle het in die laat 19de Eeu soontoe getrek van Engeland om hulle kultuur en taal te behou. Daar is tans omtrent 20 000 afstammelinge van hierdie oorspronklikke groep en baie van hulle praat nog die oorspronlikke Walliese taal en Spaans natuurlik.  Ons het hier n tradisionele koppie Walliese tee gedrink en koekies geeet. Daarna het ons ook in die museum rondgeloop om meer van hierdie gemeenskap te leer.    

Lago Puelo - Chubut district, Patagonia

We head South from Bariloche and spend two nights at a Cabana near Lago Puelo – a lake close to the town of El Bolson. The owner of the cabanas is of German descent (Von Furstenberg) and has two huge Rotweilers (Boldo and Carmen). They soon become our big buddies and hang around our cabana all day waiting for snacks after we finish our meals. Ons ry in n Suidelikke rigting van Bariloche en slaap twee aande in die klein dorpie van Lago Puelo naby El Bolson. Die eienaar van die cabana (chalet) waar ons bly is van Duitse oorsprong (Von Furstenberg) en het twee groot Rotweiler honde (Boldo en Carmen). Hulle word gou ons goeie maatjies en hang heeldag by ons cabana rond en wag vir oorskot kos van ons tafel.

The Lake District in Autumn

The Lake District, Patagonia

Ons het n paar wonderlikke dae in die Lake (Meer) distrik van Patagonia, Argentinia gespandeer - dit is regtig beeldskoon en daar is baie mere en riviere met kristal helder water. Ons het die eerste 3 aande in Villa Traful gebly, n pragtige dorpie met klein strate en kinders / perde / honde / hoenders en ander inwoners wat in die klein grond paaie rustig rondloop. Die cabana wat ons gevind het was baie oulik en uit natuurlikke bome / hout en klip gebou met n wonderlikke uitsig oor die Traful meer. Daarna het ons na Junin de los Andes gery, die dorp is bekend as die jag / visvang dorp van die Lake District en daar is baie hengel winkels en hotelletjies vir hengelaars en jagters. Andy het al sy hengel goed gehad en was reg om die groot forelle van die Chimehuin rivier te vang - sien die foto aangeheg!!!
Ons het een dag na Lake Huechulafquen gery en n baie mooi kerkie daar gekry met wonderlikke hout beeld van Christus se geboorte. Ons het vanaand in Villa Angostura aangekom en bly in n klein hosteria met warm duvets en n groot bad - net wat die dokter voorgeskryf het!      
We have just spent some wondeful days in the Lake District of Patagonia after leaving the town of Bariloche. There is some spectacular scenery and we found a delightful little Hobbit house cabana at Villa Traful. We stayed there for 3 nights and this really is a beautiful lazy little lakeside village with dogs, horses, chickens and people wandering down the small dirt roads. We then travelled to the town of Junin de los Andes which is the hunting / fishing capital of the Lake district. There are many fly fishing shops and lodges catering for overseas fishermen and hunters in this area. Andy was all kitted up with his fly fishing gear and ready to do battle with the Giant River trout of the Chimehuin river - please see photo result attached!! We drove to Lake Huechulafquen for one day and found a beautiful little church there with an exquisite carved nativity scene. Arrived in Villa Angostura tonight and staying in a cozy little hosteria with down duvets and a hot bath - just what the doctor ordered!   

Bariloche - The Lake District of Patagonia

We have just arrived in the beautiful Lake district of Patagonia, staying in a hostel and have 2 lazy days getting everything organized. I have found out that this is a prime trout fishing area and hope to buy a second hand trout rod / reel and flies tomorrow. We will hire a car and spend the next 10 days travelling to th many lakes and small villages in the area. Hopefully the next Blog picture will be us holding a big fat Rainbow trout ; ).
Ons het nou net in die pragtige dorp van Bariloche aangekom - dit is omring met berge en mere. Die eerste twee dae was baie rustig maar more gaan ons n kar huur en al die klein dorpies / mere / bege in die distrik gaan besoek. Ons het pas uitgevind dat hierdie n baie bekende forel hengel area is en ek gaan more probeer om n tweede handse visstok / katrol by een van die Argentieneers t koop. Hopenlik sal die volgende blog foto een van ek en Glaudine met n groot forel wees ; ).   

Buenos Aires - Ryk in geskiedenis

Ons het n dag in die Recoleta distrik gespandeer - dit is ryk in geskiedenis en daar is n baie sterk Spaanse / Italiaanse invloed. Ons het die kuns museum bygewoon en ook die begrafplaas waar Evita Peron begrawe is. Sy was n lid van die Duarte familie en is in hulle familie mausoleum begrawe. Daar was ook n bedrywige ope lug mark aan die gang met baie interessante stalletjies en mense wat optree / kunstenaars.
We spent a day walking around the Recoleta district - an area rich in history / tradition with a strong Spanish and Italian influence. We spent a few hours in the National Art gallery and also went to the burial site of Evita Peron. She was a member of the Duarte family and is buried in their very ornate family mausoleum. There is also a very strong Roman Catholic presence in the city with many churches and monuments.
There was a fantastic open air market as it was a Public holiday - many interesting stalls and performing artists / craftsmen.     

Open air market - Recoleta district, Buenos Aires

Graffiti - Palermo district, Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires - South America

Na 14 ure op n vliegtuig het ons uiteindelik aangekom in die woelige stad van Buenos Aires in Suid Amerika. Die mense en die atmosfeer is heeltemal anders as Europa en hulle ry soos maniake!!! Ons bly in a klein boutique hotelletjie (met die naam van Che Lulu!) in die distrik van Palermo. Dit is n baie funky hotel in n trendy deel van die stad maar daar is ook arm mense wat naby bly. Ons kan nie glo hoe baie graffiti daar is op die mure - van dit is baie professioneel en maak die strate baie kleurvol maar die res is blote vandalisme. Daar is baie groot woonstel blokke met goeie security en n wag wat buite staan. Ons gaan uit en eet lekker rooi vleis en drink n glasie rooi wyn!
We arrive in the bustling city of Buenos Aires after a cramped 14 hour flight from Germany - the people drive like maniacs and the vibe is completely different to Northern Europe. We stay in a trendy little boutique hotel (Che Lulu) in the district of Palermo. There is an unbeleivable amount of graffiti on the walls, some very artistic and colourful but the rest just pure vandalism!! The Argentinians are very friendly but not many speak good English and we get by on our broken Portuguese and sign language most of the time. 
We go out and enjoy a meal of red meat and a glass of Argentinian red wine.     

Fishing village - Lofoten Islands There seemed to be many small family fishing operations such as this one with a boat, fjord cottage and drying racks.

Cod fish on the racks - Lofoten Islands

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Lofoten Eilande

Ons het aangekom in die Lofoten eilande Wes van die Norweese kus en het beplan om drie dae daar te bly. Die weer was koud en die paaie bedek met ys - ons het n kar gehuur en baie versigtig gery. Die Lofoten eilande is bekend vir sy Cod vis en die visse word gevng, op groot buitelig rakke droog gemaak en uitgevoer na Italie. Hulle se "jy kan die geld ruik" as jy deur die visserdorpe ry. Ek weet nie of dit soos geld ruik nie maar jy kan vir seker iets ruik!!!!
We arrived in the Lofoten islands off West Coast of Norway -the roads were covered in ice and this made driving treacherous and dangerous. We hired an old lazy Merecedes and travelled down to the Southern most part of the main Island group. The main industry in the Lofoten islands is Cod fishing - the Cod is salted / dried on large outdoor racks and then exported to Italy. They say "you can smell the money" when you drive through the small fishing towns. I am not sure if it smells like money but you can certainly smell something!!! We stayed in a small renovated fisherman's cabin on the shores of a small Fjord.         

Fjord sundowner, Hurtigruten ferry

Hurtigruten Ferry

We travelled from Kirkeness to the Lofoten Islands on the Hurtigruten ferry. This is a classic Norwegian experience and the ferries travel from coastal town to coastal town via the sheletered fjords to protect them from the North sea storms and big swell. The ferries range from luxurious to basic and we struggled to get used to our cramped little cabin on the MS Lofoten. We took some spectacular pictures of the fjords and surrounding areas whilst we were travelling.
Ons het op die Hurtigruten ferry boot van Kirkeness na die Lofoten eilande geseil - dit is n klassieke Norweese belewenis. Die groot ferry bote seil daagliks tussen die kus dorpe en bly meeste van die tyd in die fjords sodat hulle beskerm is teen die onstuimige weer van die Noord see. Die kajuit was baaaaaie klein en dit het n rukkie gevat voordat ons daaraan gewoont was!   

Dog sled team 1000km race

Snow mobile expedition in Kirkeness

Kirkeness, Norway

Kirkeness is far North in Norway and very close to the Russian border - this is real frontier country and usually covered in snow and ice. We are very lucky as there is a 1000km dog sled race that passes through Kirkeness while we are there. This is a huge event on the Norwegian calendar and pretty much the same as arriving in Pretoria while the World Cup rugby is on ; ). We see the Northern lights again when we go out dog sledding with a Belgium guide. We help to get the 8 dogs together and in their harnesses, they all get really excited when they find out that they are going for a run and start barking madly. It is almost the same as when we go pig hunting with my friend's pig hunting dogs in Knysna - they love to hunt and get very excited when the bakkie arrives to load them. We also stay one night in the spectacular Kirkeness Snow Hotel and go on a snow mobile expedition which was pretty exciting and a new experience for both of us.
Ons ry met die Ferry boot na die dorp van Kirkeness wat ver in die Noorde van Norwee is - dit is naby aan die grens van Rusland en meeste van die jaar bedek met sneeu en ys. Ons is bevooreg om daar te wees terwyl n 1000km honde slee reis aan die gang is - die Noorweers is mal oor hulle honde slee reisies en dit is dieselfde as om in Pretoria te wees in die middel van die Wereld beker Rugby toernooi. Ons bly een aand in die ongellooflikke Kirkeness Sneeu Hotel (n hotel wat uitsluitlik van sneeu gebou is!) en gaan op n sneeu scooter expedisie - baie opwindend en n nuwe ervaring vir albei van ons.           

Oslo, Norway

We arrive in Oslo, the capital city of Norway - it is frreezing cold and we are happy to be booked into a cozy little hotel called Die Anker. Ons arriveer in Oslo doe hoofstad van Norwee - dit is bitter koud en ons is baie bly dat ons in n snoesige klein hotel met die naam van "Die Anker" bly. Die paaie is vol sneeu en gladde ys, jy moet baie versigtig loop anders val jy op jou agterent.  

Tromso, Norway

We are in the Arctic circle - it is freezing cold and the snow is falling in large flakes! Our hope was to see the Northern Lights but at the moment there is too much cloud cover and hopefully we get clear skies in the next couple of days.
Ons is in Tromso, n dorp wat Noord van die Arktiese sirkel is! Ons hoop om die Noordelikke Ligte te sien maar wag net vir n helder aand sonder wolke. Die sneeu val in groot vlokke en dit is n wonerlikke belewenis.